One more mod away from perfeKtion!
This time I wanted a 12V source at the rear of the ZJ and ideally it
would be a standard "ciggy lighter" type outlet. Problem, there isn't
enough room behind that plastic to install the outlet so a work around
was in order.
A quick list of the parts:
||Radio Shack Part Number
|Jack (5.5/2.1 coax) (2 in a pack)
|Plug (5.5/2.1 coax)
|Fuse Holder (2 in a pack)
|The first thing to do was to remove the lighter plug from the end of
the extension cord. After a bit of solder and some heat shrink I came up
with this. I have to admit it would be much more elegant to have
a standard outlet available but they are just too deep for the body plastic
and it would take some woodworking or metal cutting to get one in there.
Something I just didn't feel like doing. Maybe later if this proves
to be too annoying. :)
|This is the connection at the bottom of the "D Pillar" The wire
is a 18 Gauge Red with Black Stripe. There is a larger wire in that
bundle that is pink with a black stripe. That wire feeds the rear
door lock motor. Don't tap it, ok? When in doubt pull fuse
#1 (20A) from the drivers door fuse block.
|Nice and splicey. I used a slightly larger gauge wire to run
the power up. This isn't the way it should be done but there was
no way in (DELETED) I was going to go buy a 4 ft stretch of wire just for
this project, mkay? ^_^
Oh. This is just the first step. To finalize I soldered
the connection and wrapped it with self vulcanizing rubber tape.
Don't ever leave twisted wire as the only connection, it's bad, very bad.
|Well, now for the location. I chose the passenger side of the
ZJ since it wasn't obscured by the spare tire and a location on the side
that had a corresponding depression in the body metal that gave me just
enough room. Do be sure to insulate behind the connector. Especially
the socket. In this pic you can see the fuse holder positioned so
it's easier to get at and the LED mounted in the plastic panel.
|In this pic you see the switch mounted below the LED. The spacing
was arbitrary but it looked ok. There is a 1/4" gap between the switch
and the LED.
|Now I added the outlet at about the same spacing. The power line
has been connected and the ground line
has been fitted to the body. The maximum this circuit can pull
(in combination with the power antenna and trailer tow group) is 20 Amps
(fuse1). The fuse I chose to use is a 5A fuse based on the highest
power I anticipate drawing from this plug. Although the components
are rated at a minimum of 30A.
|Well, this is the finished product with the switch on. As you
can see the light is just bright enough to be seen at night if it's left
on by mistake. And with the current draw of the LED being 15ma, well,
it could run for a very loooooooooooooooong time.
|This is a pic with the power cord attached. The only fault I
can pick is that if you stick a key or some other metal bit in that socket
you can pop the fuse. :/ I wish there was a DC jack with a switch
way at the back. But this sitll is better than having to run a stupid
cord from the forward ligher. And I don't need to leave a key in
the ignition to have power.